• Men's Hairstyles

How To Make Thinning Hair Look Thicker

There are certain things to which a man must resolve himself. Ageing, the weather, David Cameron’s tax affairs; all a waste of rage. Most would have you believe your hairline is equally unfixable, that all you can do is curse your father and watch your forehead inexorably towards your crown.

But that’s the kind of attitude that would have seen Hitler bunked up in London. With a more combative approach, you can win the war on thinning hair.

Why on earth why does my hair look so thin?

“Hair can begin to thin for a number of reasons,” says Aveda master barber Stelios Nicolou. “It can be hereditary or down to lifestyle or nutritional factors.”

So if it’s dad’s fault, what can I do about it?

“I always recommend speaking to your barber if you are concerned that you are thinning,” says Nicolou. “They should be able to suggest products to prevent and slow down the process as well techniques like massaging the scalp to stimulate and encourage growth.

“You can try a preventative product like Aveda Invati Men Shampoo, which works to thoroughly exfoliate the scalp to remove product build up and unclog pores – factors that can contribute to hair loss. The Invati Scalp Revitalizer works to thicken hair at the root.”

I notice more hair in the sink after I wash it. Should I stop?

“Thinning hair is more often than not genetic,” says Dan Gregory, of men’s grooming mecca Man Made London.

“So if you use an everyday shampoo, it’s totally fine. But don’t just grab your partner’s shampoo, especially if they have longer hair. Men and women with longer hair don’t tend to wash their hair as regularly as they don’t use as much product, so they need a stronger shampoo to cleanse a few days of natural oil build up. It can have the opposite effect if you use it everyday.”

Is a buzzcut my only option?

“It all depends on what type of thinning you have,” says Gregory. “If you have thinning at the crown you could opt for the swept back pomp. This creates height at the front and maintains hair towards the apex of the head, which you can use to sweep over the thinning area.

“If your hair is receding at the front, but the rest is still generally thick, you could go for two different styles. One is keeping the fringe with some length to it, but keep a slight disconnection at the blend and temple, so you can bring it slightly over the recession to add more fullness to the hairline.

“If your hair is quite thin, with a higher recession, then I’d cut the fringe short and blunt, to create a straight hairline. You want to preserve length, which will add weight and help the fringe seem thicker and straighter.

“But with all these styles, keeping the back and sides short is key as it will always be thicker than the top.”

What products can I use to make my hair look thicker?

“Using a hair dryer will help straight away,” says Gregory. “The heat plumps up the hair, making it appear thicker. But be sure to add in a base product before using your hair dryer, so you don’t burn your hair. Something like a salt spray is ideal.

“Then, when you’re styling, a matte clay or paste is the best finishing product. Again, it gives a thicker, fuller look to any style.”

Anything I should avoid?

“Products with a high shine or wet look reflect the light and give your hair separation, which makes your hair look thinner,” says Gregory.

“You should be sparing with products, anyway. Some men use way too much product in just one area. Instead, apply it all over like you are shampooing your hair, then style it into place. This helps it look more natural, last longer, and it won’t draw attention to what you are trying to disguise.

“Most importantly, never try a combover. The best thing to do if you’re worried about thinning hair is get an honest opinion from your barber. Then you can work together on a style or cut that suits what you’ve got.”

Tom Banham

Jocks & Nerds deputy editor Tom Banham is an outerwear addict with bylines in GQ, Men’s Health and Mr Porter. He’s fascinated by the collision of high fashion and streetwear, but also knows his way around a soft-shouldered blazer. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter at @banham_tom